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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 400 qt. Cooler
« Last post by wildscottishblum on November 13, 2021, 06:51:35 PM »
Poisonarrow that is very nice.
Can you share some more of the design? Dimensions etc?
My fishdeck is going to be >8' long and I've been thinking of building something like this.
Boat Building Materials / Re: Home Depot 'Marine Ply' mystery solved...
« Last post by Lyle on November 13, 2021, 05:31:49 PM »
Lowes in Manahawkin NJ also stocks Roseburg Marine Fir in 3/4 and 1/2.

Boat Building Tools / Re: caulking gun and epoxy
« Last post by Lyle on November 13, 2021, 05:10:05 PM »
 The thing with pastry bags, is to get the plastic tips for the cut end. Makes the piped out fillet very neat. Still needs tooling, but you can dial it in to have hardly any excess to deal with. I've found it much quicker if your doing a lot of filleting in a day.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 400 qt. Cooler
« Last post by poisonarrow on November 13, 2021, 07:47:48 AM »
I am going to be fishing off the coast of LA. I plan on catching BIG tuna. Ha!
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 400 qt. Cooler
« Last post by poisonarrow on November 13, 2021, 07:46:36 AM »
I dont know how long it will hold ice. I have not tested it yet. How do they do a test that means anything? A solid block would last a long time.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 400 qt. Cooler
« Last post by luk diver on November 13, 2021, 07:42:46 AM »
 IF we did big tuna a BIG chest would probably work for us. Because we're cleaning 'as we go' #15-30 albacore (maximizes chest capacity and allows loins in 1-gal ziplocks to chill down asap). Surely would be a lot easier than constantly shoveling ice and packing bags. We sprinkle rocksalt on the top when the chest is full and next morning when working with bags we have to get them out 15min early so the product is workable as it's partially frozen. How long does ice hold in your chest? Are you using crushed/shaved ice from a fish house? They add salt so ice is super c-o-l-d. Nice project btw. B & B
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 20’ Widebody Build
« Last post by larspa on November 13, 2021, 07:30:04 AM »
I had a similar problem with the looooonng delivery date (June/July) for my 150 and a need to finish up the dash.  So, I ordered the SMG4 to arrive shortly so I can mount it for a test fit.

General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / 400 qt. Cooler
« Last post by poisonarrow on November 13, 2021, 05:32:08 AM »

This will mount in the center of the boat. I built it from 1/8 plywood and foam. It weighs less than 100 pounds 2 1/4 of foam.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 20’ Widebody Build
« Last post by barrelroll on November 12, 2021, 11:18:35 PM »
Here's my final update for this last round of days off.

I got the outside of the bunk verticals, bunk tops and crash chamber lid glassed with 4oz glass. I got 3 coats of epoxy down on all the exposed wood in the cuddy that won't be glassed/ painted. I plan on painting the inside of the bunks with white paint and the bunk tops/ verticals with a grey paint. I'm going to mask off the glueup areas and get everything primed and painted before installing the bunks/ gluing on the cuddy roof. I think it will be much more enjoyable to do the painting outside the boat/ before the roof is on. I'll use a lot of masking tape/ plastic when they get glued up, paint the glue up and then seal off the painted areas with some plastic and cardboard to protect them. When I glassed the bunk tops I wanted to epoxy the bottoms at the same time. I put 4 2" screws in each side to act as legs to allow me to work both sides in the same session without messing up the epoxy on either side.

The plan is to use hull liner from the bunk tops up. I cut out a piece from my roll of hull liner to play with and it will hide a lot. Prep for the hull liner is very simple, hit the major runs/ high spots with a sander, scuff everything with a scotch bright pad, clean with something to remove grease, spray with spray glue and apply. It "should" be a 1 day job compared to 4 coats for primer/ paint, sanding in between each coat, and doing enough fairing to make it look nice. It also knocks down on condensation and provides a bit of insulation.

I also got a gob of filler on the shelf tops and side to shelf joint. It needs to be sanded flat though should be enough filler to have a nice line for my toe rail to follow. My line was rather rough in spots thanks to some sloppy cuts. I'm planning on a 3/4"x1" pine toe rail glassed with 10oz. I'll get the toe rail glued up and worry about final fairing after it's glued up, trying to get the edge perfect before the toe rail is in to help hold filler is a waste of time and filler.

One last thing I did was play with cleat mounting locations. I'd like to have all the holes drilled in the shelves for cleats, rod holders, down riggers, ect. before I glass the shelves/ toe rail/ upper 2" of the hull so I can oversize drill and epoxy the holes when I glass the shelves. There's a fair amount of times we are tied up for a couple minutes such as at the boat ramp or fuel dock. I also want to avoid toe stubbers if possible on the side shelves between the back of the pilot house and anchor deck. The fuel dock wants you tied off with 2 lines while fueling. Getting up on the bow is doable though I'm not sure how often we are going to want to run up there to tie up for a couple minutes. My wife brought up the idea of putting 1 cleat at the rear of the pilot house and a second at the transom, both are easy to get to without playing monkey man, and a cleat towards the bow out of the walking path for longer term tie ups. I'm planning on sliding windows and a Jim Shula notched toe rail below the pilot house windows for a fender along with a notch near the rear cleat for a fender.

I didn't get anywhere near as much as I wanted to get done though I got a lot of other stuff and loose ends taken care of. I decided getting the hull ready for primer probably isn't a great idea till stuff higher up is done and to work in stages by vertical location for the hull sides. 1st get all the holes drilled in the shelves and a toe rail installed. Glass the lower pilot house/ cuddy sides, fillet the toe rail, glass the shelves/ toe rail/ upper 2" of the hull, fillet the shelves to cabin, tape the shelves to cabin. When that's done finish the main spray rails, move on to the secondary spray rails, and then worry about final fairing the hull. I could have gotten the cuddy roof glued up though would have been doing a lot of work crunched down in the cuddy to finish some details. I did get the fuel tanks in and can't build the covers for the fuel hoses till some other pieces are made and in. It was a successful 2 weeks. Next round of home time the goal is to get the cuddy roof on, helm seat mounts finished, rear pilot house bulkhead in, and upper pilot house sides on so I can get windows ordered since they are probably 3 months or more out. 

Shooting for a spring launch. My motor is still in the Suzuki black hole. I ordered in March and it's still not here. My dealer ordered a long and a short shaft 140 at the same time, the long shaft came in. Talking with another big Suzuki dealer they are officially at a year waiting on some 300's so it could be a while longer. With the 140B being a drive by wire/ digital motor my dealer sold me the digital Suzuki C10 gauge. The C10 is the older Suzuki digital gauge and the SMG4 is the newer Suzuki digital gauge. If my motor shows up as a 2021 it can use either gauge. If it's a 2022 I need the newer SMG4. Of course both gauges use different mounting patterns so I can't finalize my dash till the motor shows up. Order date has nothing to do with the year of motor that shows up. The SMG4 can be hard to come and could be a couple month wait.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: 20’ Widebody Build
« Last post by barrelroll on November 12, 2021, 10:14:08 PM »
I want the ability the hose out of the cabin of the boat. To do that both the cuddy and pilot house bulkheads needed drain plugs. I was able to get the cuddy bulkhead drilled out for a drain plug.

I've planned on installing a Garmin auto pilot. They recommend you install the compass low in the center forward half of the boat away from magnetic objects. There's not a lot of spots in the Tolman to put it. I put it low on the rear cuddy bulkhead and built a "helmet" that bolts on to protect it. The helmet still needs cleanup and glass/ epoxy though will protect it nicely. Part of the reason for drilling the mounting holes was to get them epoxied now while I was doing the cuddy.

For several reasons I decided to go with a bow eye instead of a bow pipe. I wasn't sure how long I'd need so I ordered one with 6" of threads from Amazon. I was worried about drilling the holes straight/ square free hand and knew it wouldn't turn out well. I made a jig out of a 2x4 and drilled the holes square on my mill. It worked out great, the eye bolt fit first try. After I drilled the holes to size I drilled it oversize and filled it with thickened epoxy. I'll put the jig back up and redrill, if I get wood in the shavings I'll drill oversize again and fill till I don't get any wood.

When I made the cuddy sides my goal was to have a flat enough for a 5x12 portlight window. I wanted some ventilation with screens that could be open in some rain. I glued up the sides with a 2x12 screwed on to keep them straight and needed to pull the 2x12's to epoxy the cuddy. I was a little worried they were going to jump when I pulled the 2x12. They stayed straight enough for the silicone gasket to seal and I was able to get the holes cleaned up/ redrilled. After bolting the windows in I got to play with them a little more. There's a vent mode on the latches for a little bit of air flow, they open to about 85 degrees with the spring though when pushed up stay at more than 90 degrees. So far I'm happy with them though I wish I would have installed them farther back. The windows come with nice m6 stainless phillips head screws that were too short. I didn't have long enough m6 bolts in my collections so I picked up $5 worth of the last m6x40mm bolts in town to mock them up. Proper stainless screws will be ordered up for final install.
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