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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Jumbo motor shaft length
« Last post by GlacierBoats on May 03, 2024, 09:45:59 AM »

- Yes, dunking is not an "on plane" issue.  It becomes an issue at very slow speeds or adrift.
- The "One inch up for every twelve inches back" thing is a rule of thumb that works better for heavier deep-V boats than it does for modest deadrise, lighter weight, shallower draft, boats such as the Tolman or Great Alaskan.
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: After 5 years I have an empty shop!
« Last post by pfithian on May 03, 2024, 08:37:20 AM »
Beautiful work, congratulations!
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: How To Screw Up A Good 2002 Suzuki DF140
« Last post by KenB on May 03, 2024, 07:49:35 AM »
Thanks Lyle! Will update with progress.

I have been meditating on the moment when that old grease releases, and goops out. True zen.
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Jumbo motor shaft length
« Last post by KenB on May 03, 2024, 07:48:30 AM »
Hi BobC and Glacier,

That's a good point about bracket set back. On my seacraft23, the setback in 30 inches but I have heard that the same setback on smaller seacrafts (18s, 20s) isn't great and I wonder if it's because of what you guys wrote.

Some other comments:
- I used the 1 inch up for every 12 inches back (30 set back 2 1/2 up, 25 inch engine), but had to drop my engine to the lowest set of holes.
- My bracket is not in the water when I'm on plane. I think if you are dunking the engine something else might be going on?
- I don't have any pics of my boat in the water (strange...! must be because I am always on it!) but I have a few of my buddy's bracket. He has a 30 inch 350 suzi, don't know the setback, on the same hull (sc23).
- Do you have plans to wrap the shelf cap around the transom? I have noticed that putting a little crown in keeps water from pooling, but also just looks... better.

All of which to say, 24 inch setback, raised to 27 inches should be good! Please post plans and build photos!

And here is the Nolan Bracket thread: https://www.fishyfish.com/boards/index.php?topic=5852.msg60349
- I recall somewhere photos of 'steps' Nolan glued into the 90° corners. I think he drove his van over a test piece? Can't find it now.



Sean,  From what I understand, the further back the motor is mounted behind the transom, the higher the motor can be.  General rule of thumb is 1" up for every 12" back.  A 25" shaft should be more than adequate on a bracket.

Yeah, that's true, but there's another couple of effects caused by an open bracket.  The fulcrum that the boat rides on as it travels through waves (like a fore-aft teeter totter) is the CG.  When you put a motor on a bracket, the motor's distance from the CG grows more than how far the CG itself moves aft due to the motor being further back. What this means is that a motor on a long bracket drops lower in height from the water than it did when it was on or close to the transom if that makes sense.  Because of this, long brackets tend to dunk motors more easily, especially so if your bracket tends to trap water in it ... it kind of 'pumps' upward and exacerbates the issue.  These things are generally not a huge issue for the majority of brackets out there (of reasonable length).  The point is just that these effects are not helping you if you decide that you want a shorter shaft motor that already places the motor head closer to the water.  If someone wants to use a shorter shaft, say a standard long shaft, you'd want to hedge your bets and either use an Armstrong-style bracket (has flotation) or keep the motor as close to the transom as you can ... as mentioned ... hedge your bets where you can.

Excellent point, I really hadn't thought about the CG shift rearward and it's effects.
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: After 5 years I have an empty shop!
« Last post by KenB on May 03, 2024, 07:06:47 AM »
She floats! Looks serene, wonderful boat.

- what paint?
- does the keel help?
- what's next!

Great.
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: After 5 years I have an empty shop!
« Last post by GlacierBoats on May 03, 2024, 05:53:57 AM »

What a fine and spectacular job you did!  What a beautiful boat!!  Congratulations to you ... you earned it!!

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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: After 5 years I have an empty shop!
« Last post by jim shula on May 02, 2024, 06:53:30 PM »
Nice job, Lyle.  So what's your next project going to be?
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: After 5 years I have an empty shop!
« Last post by Lyle on May 02, 2024, 06:19:10 PM »
Launched the SeaBright Skiff the other day. this is the only one built so far and  I changed plan from an inboard diesel to outboard, I had a few flashes of doubt as go time came. 5 years invested.
 It all worked out.
 I call it a slippery hull- coasts a long way after going from dead slow to neutral.
It really liked 10 kts @ 2200 rpm. Hit 21 kts @5600. Well behaved.
Does not lean at all in turns. Relayed all this to designer- he was surprised at the speed for around bilged hull. He figured 15 kt max w/ 115 hp.

Have run 45 nautical miles on 9.2 gals- at varying speeds between 8-15 kts.
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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: How To Screw Up A Good 2002 Suzuki DF140
« Last post by Lyle on May 02, 2024, 05:51:21 PM »
Ideally I would remove the circlip at the bottom of the swivel tube/ shaft. Shaft'll probably not want to move up and out though. A small bottle jack would help here. Also some heat - just be careful heating ends of tube- many have plastic bushings. Best to keep heat near middle.

 I tried but could not remove the shaft.  I did remove grease fitting, than heat, than PB, than move. Repeat as long as it takes. Drilling holes was a last ditch attempt that worked to help evacuate old grease-this time.

I wanted to plug holes with more grease fittings, but drilled too big for what I had on hand. I used Some PC7 epoxy putty for now.

If I ever get a new outboard, I will disassemble and clean every 2 or 3 years as P.M.-should be easy enough.

 Good luck with the Merc!
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