I have a bit of experience with 'floatation brackets' as I made one for my seacraft. The two main benefits are that you can 1) close the transom, which gets you back the deck space from splashwell and it's safer for backing down on big fish, and 2) Supposedly there is fuel efficiency from having the outboard run further back in cleaner water. Downside is that it's supposedly harder to manouver around docks, etc but I have not experienced that. Or the MPG gains, either; I get about the same numbers as my buddy who has the same engine on the same hull with a transom mount. But I can confirm that the extra deck space is real. You can also climb back into the boat a little easier, after a swim (even though I skipped the the swim platform).
I am doing a widebody with a bracket. I have consulted a few seacraft guys, and used a lot of Nolan's ideas. My first version was to layup on in mold from poly/1708, then bolt the 'bracket1' to the transom (armstrong, etc) but then I decided that integrating a square 'bracket2' into the transom might be a better idea, the way Nolan did it.
The bracket on my seacraft23 is set back 30", and there was some discussion that seacraft20's did not run well with fullsized brackets. So for my tolman, I scaled it to 26" which leaves enough room for 60hp mercs to tilt up. The curved transom cap is a seacraft thing, but once you see it you can't not notice how funny flat transom-cap/brackets look. I may also extend the transom cap shelf, to fit two small livewells on the corners. Super handy for when you have live baits but want to move a bit.
With regard to your question about extending the stringers into the bracket, based on my diagrams, they don't overlap. Nolan had a technique of adding a 'nailer' to bulk up the inside filet, which should be more than enough.
I think we should call them "Nolan Brackets," if everyone agrees.