Totally hypothetical questions here...

If someone had a 9.9 hp toad motor, or even a new 4s 9.9... and wanted to make a scaled down tolman standard to fit that motor, what would the dimensions be?

- 12'? 14'? If an 18' standard has a 25' transom and a jon boat has a 20 inch transom, then the jon boat is 14.4 feet. 14 feet feels long for a flat bottom skiff with a 9.9, but the 8° vee should make the jon tolman a little more efficient:

- when I think of those 14 aluminum jon boats, the transom/bottom corner is usually flat, and the bow pops way up before getting on plane...

- using jumbo (22' long, 6' at bottom), widebody (20, 5.5, and standard (18', 5') numbers plus some math ('show your work' below), results in a bottom around 4.5', but wider is usually better so even going shorter than 14, probably 4.5 is about right.

(Kind of a fun aside... to curve fit I just wiggled the curve around until I thought it fit; mathematically, this process is by definition 'AI,' where machine learning, deep learning, etc are just different tricks for getting the line in the right place. Theoretically, AI is just a statistical method to approximate or curve fit. I did mine in 2 dimensions, while AI can add many more. That said, at least for right now I'm still better at picking out the 3 pictures of a stoplight.)

Other hypothetical topics:

- laminated 1/2 ply transom, but no 2x8

- shorter sides to save weight...

- ... but a spray rail to keep it a tolman.

- 3/4 ply stringers to make the side seat/box things that jon boats have? Jon boat owners, are these side seats better than the ones that run abreast?

- no shelves, instead 1x3 rubrail, from maybe ipe decking. On the gulls and skiffs I have done, when wood rubrails are PL'd to the sides, they becomes kind of structural.

- no floatation at bow, but maybe a cubby. That 'bow stem to the top of the sides' triangle piece is probably needed.

- 1/2 ply for bottom? poking through other stitch and glue designs, perhaps 3/8 is enough, since both sides get glass. I think 1/4 is too thin for bottom, but maybe ok for sides. But any votes for a 1/2 ply bottom?

- Most controversially, again hypothetically, because of no shelves, maybe one laminated frame amidship, in order to spanish windlass the sides to the transom. The way I have done work skiffs and gulls is to attach the sides to the bow stem, let that cure, then bend the sides around a frame placed amidship, and finally attach sides to transom. On gulls, you can do one side at a time because of the strongback/frame, but with work skiffs you can do both sides at the same time; the spanish windlass! Cut the sides to fit the bottom, then tape all the seams. I use Renn's '2x4 blocks' trick to snug the sides/bottom and sides/transom to fit. On the gulls, the frame is then removed. On work skiffs, I've left the frame in, so I know where to put the bench seat. I actually use thule roof straps instead of a traditional spanish windlass, but anyway I also prefer epoxy and plywood to lapstrakes, too.