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51
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Southern Maryland Jumbo Build
« Last post by GS on July 26, 2016, 05:51:12 PM »
I've been wearing the same pair of sneakers since I started. Not as flexible anymore and the tread is pretty much filled in. I need to learn to not spill so much epoxy and keep it on the skiff.
52
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Strakes w/ PL?
« Last post by jim shula on July 26, 2016, 04:16:12 PM »
Quote
I have considered wood in passing, but responding to your comments, Jim S. are the screws really needed as wood is frequently epoxied on?  Actually, it's not the end of the world if they come off as long as there are no penetrations in the epoxy/glass bottom covering.

The screws are needed to hold the ipe in position, especially in the transition around the bowstem.  I had to rip the ipe into two layers of 3/8 to get them to make this bend.  Once the epoxy has set, you could remove these screws.  I chose to countersink them and putty over.
53
Introduce Yourself / Re: Another Oregonian here
« Last post by gdwamsley on July 26, 2016, 03:08:24 PM »
Build an 18 or 20ft standard.  I don't think you will be sorry. You could power the 18 with a little 25 or even less if you don't need to get there in a hurry.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

54
Introduce Yourself / Another Oregonian here
« Last post by Billinoregon on July 26, 2016, 02:58:16 PM »
I've got a 16-foot Jetcraft  parked in the driveway, but I am itching to build boat No. 2. My first, built nearly 40 years ago, was a 7' 9" pram based on the old Douglas Fir Plywood Association plans the DFPA widely gave away in the 1960s. I used marine ply and WEST System epoxy on that little boat, and put in many very happy and fruitful hours fishing Oregon lakes with it.
Fast forward to Social Security age.
 :-[
First, I had to build an 8X12 garden shed to make room in the garage for a boat build. Got her done a couple of weeks ago.
In the interim, I went back over my boat stuff -- old Woodenboat magazines. Bolger Instant Boat books by Dynamite Payson.  John Gardner's "Dory Book." The Lumber Yard Skiff caught my eye for its sheer simplicity and rugged build. Bought plans from Walt Barron. No, I need something more elegant. Still loving the old pram bow, I next bought a set of Doug Hylan's Big Ben Garvey plans. Definitely an elegant boat, but may be a bit too much boat for just me, and not as good in choppy and windy conditions as a traditional bow.
Got a lot of comments on how great the Tolman is, so I ordered Renn's book. I haven't finished reading it yet (Lots of excellent information and wisdom in there!), basting about at more boat plans, I ordered a set of Candlefish 16 plans from Sam Devlin.  With my available space, my tools and my sketchy skills I think this boat will be the best fit for me, but I will wait to study the plans before I make my final decision. If I planned to fish in the ocean, I would definitely go Tolman, but I still get as motion sick at 63 as I did at age 5 in the back seat of the 1950 Chevy DeLuxe  on the way from Corvallis to Newport. So I am look at a boat for lakes and reservoirs, estuaries and protected salt like Nootka Sound.
Anyway, I know I will learn much and contribute little here, in the presence of so many true and experienced salty dogs!
55
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: By the numbers it doesn't work out
« Last post by gdwamsley on July 26, 2016, 02:32:15 PM »


Here you can see the motor depth at rest.



2x straightedge showing cav plate reference to bottom of hull



Here's my hook

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56
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: By the numbers it doesn't work out
« Last post by gdwamsley on July 26, 2016, 02:15:10 PM »
OK so more test results are in and here's what I did.

Gear case 2.33.

I installed a new tach and set it to the 3 pole position as specified for my motor.  I ran with the 13 pitch 4 blade and hit 5500 rpm.  Actually went 5600 and I backed it off and was running at about 28, 29.  Running at 4800 got me 24 to 25.  Speed was verified with (2) on board sonar/gps units and readings were within .5 mph of each other consistently.  The speeds I measured are pretty much spot on with prop calculator speeds with 0 slip. 

I pulled the boat and swapped the 17 pitch prop back on to see where and how it would run.  This prop would also reach 5500 rpm at 32 mph, and 27 at 4800 rpm.

Reviewed my floating photo to review motor set depth at rest. 

Here's what I know

Definitely had a tach problem but that is solved.

Running 13 pitch prop gave very good acceleration and cruise speed as well as reasonable top end speed.  This prop seems to hook rediculously well.  Special cup or something who knows but seems to be spot on with prop calculator with 0 slip.  I like that.

Running the 17 pitch prop gave a faster top end and even better cruise but the motor for sure works harder to get it there.  Also by the calculators it does so with a large amount of slip.  Leads me to think about drag.

Motor is mounted so cavitation plate is just below dead flat with the bottom of the hull referenced dead ahead of the main.  I will try raising the last bolt hole I have available and see if the motor cavitates or hooks up.  I don't know if I need to raise up more than that or not.  If i do I will have to raise the top of the main transom framing member as the top bolts are 1.5 inches from the top now.  As close as i dare.  That sounds like a winter or early spring project to me.  I can live with what I have for now.

Also looked at the bottom of the hull and I definitely have some drag inducing hook.  That would probably suck to fix but is doable just have to jack it off the trailer and fill it in.  Too bad it will all be overhead.  I may just live with that too.

I also found that I can trim the attitude of the boat port to starboard with the outboard trim.  Works out but is fairly sensitive and is probably robbing me of efficiency as I'm trimming to level the boat not necessarily the putting the motor at optimum trim for running.  I'm considering building up the transom and centering the main this winter.

Trim switch up direction now doesn't work on the remote either. Grrr.  Still does on the motor.

Overall realistically the 13 pitch prop gives a good cruise speed and adequate top end.  I think I will run this prop for now but would like to try a 15 pitch.  Just might be the sweet spot. 

More to come as the testing continues
57
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Strakes w/ PL?
« Last post by AlasKen on July 26, 2016, 01:38:31 PM »
Ken,

We always ran the rollers/fenders so that they would roll, 90 degrees from what your pic shows.  Tie a rope to each end of the fenders. Run it under the boat and tie a rope on each side cleated off so the fender is under the keel.  Run let the fender come to the shore and anchor off.  Now your keel is protected on the beach and your boat is ready to roll back in the water when you are ready to roll back in.   With thre or more you don't have to wait for the tide. Like this but on a smaller scale!  ;D   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRWx2E0iyFQ

Yes, I don't think you will spin the jumbo with a full cabin.

They do a lot of this using rollers or logs with Pangas down south and in parts of Malaysia.

Sounds like it would work if you were planning on it and not just getting stuck.  It is the proactive, planning ahead thing that is my downfall.  Ken
58
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Strakes w/ PL?
« Last post by larspa on July 26, 2016, 01:37:08 PM »
Alasken:  Great pictures of a fine Tolman.  Thanks for sharing your comments and pictures.
59
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Strakes w/ PL?
« Last post by BobC on July 26, 2016, 01:25:19 PM »
Ken,

We always ran the rollers/fenders so that they would roll, 90 degrees from what your pic shows.  Tie a rope to each end of the fenders. Run it under the boat and tie a rope on each side cleated off so the fender is under the keel.  Run let the fender come to the shore and anchor off.  Now your keel is protected on the beach and your boat is ready to roll back in the water when you are ready to roll back in.   With thre or more you don't have to wait for the tide. Like this but on a smaller scale!  ;D   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRWx2E0iyFQ

Yes, I don't think you will spin the jumbo with a full cabin.

They do a lot of this using rollers or logs with Pangas down south and in parts of Malaysia. 
60
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Motor talk...
« Last post by BobC on July 26, 2016, 01:05:48 PM »
I see you passed on the "opportunity".  LOL.  Yeah, I would have trouble coming up with the clams for that as well.  The G2 would only be in my budget as a deeply discounted dealer demo model.  I figure that does three things.  Makes sure it didn't have any out of the crate defects, gives me full dealer warranty as if it were new, and lastly saves me about 30% off the best "deal" or "show" price.  I was seeing a 2015 model 300HP G2 for roughly the same price you were quoted on the 200 HO.

Objectively, I have looked at pricing on the comparable Yamaha, Honda, Mercury, Tohatsu and Suzuki motors.  The Yamaha big block V6 200 4s is $15-17K.  The Yamaha I4 200HP 4s is $14-15K.  Neither include rigging components or power steering which is included in the price of the G2 quoted.  Add in a Hynautic/Sea Star Hydraulic steering system and you are pretty close in price comparing new to new.  Suzuki & Tohatsu are a little cheaper but I have no dealers nearby that will service.  Mercury and Evinrude are the closest dealers.

Here is a useful comparison tool.   Lots of options.

 http://outboards.axlegeeks.com/d/h/200
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