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 51 
 on: April 20, 2014, 09:50:09 PM 
Started by lowpine - Last post by lowpine
I got the boat all legal this week (HID, title and registered) and on the trailer today.  I lubed up the bunks with plenty of silicone and she slid on without any big issues.  I made a few additional bunk and roller adjustments after she was loaded.  Launch sometime next weekend.

Bass Pro had some numbers that matched the paint scheme pretty well




1 1/4" pvc tarp frame


detail on attaching to boat


with tarp


I also made a set of rod holders for the side of the boat, these will attache to the framing:



I'm feeling early symptoms of boatbuilding withdrawal  Grin

Steve RVA

 52 
 on: April 20, 2014, 09:19:51 PM 
Started by penguin - Last post by jim shula
Agree with the above.  It's no reason to replace the head.  You could remove the head, however, before you try the thread chaser or helicoil to make sure none of metal shavings get in the cylinder.  Have a new gasket on hand, and read up on bolt sequence and torqueing, and when to re-torque after you run the engine for a while.

 53 
 on: April 20, 2014, 08:25:30 PM 
Started by penguin - Last post by captainfogfish
Agree with Lyle try a thread chaser first , just be carefull and get any swarf out of the head after you have tapped , shame to score the bore after getting the threads cleaned . Helicoils are good but you have to drill and tap a slightly larger hole to get the helicoil in place . Best option for me would be Helicoil , at least you know how good the thread is .If you were closer to Aberdeen I would offer to do it as I have all the kit in the workshop .

   Eddie

 54 
 on: April 20, 2014, 08:02:42 PM 
Started by penguin - Last post by Lyle
Rod,
 I would try a thread chaser before the helicoil or new head. It's just a tap that will clean up old threads if they are not too badly damaged. Bring a plug to the auto parts store or Harbor Freight and they will give you the proper size chaser. Not too expensive and worth a try. Maybe a little anti sieze on plug threads too. Good luck with it.
Lyle

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=thread%20chaser

 55 
 on: April 20, 2014, 06:22:41 PM 
Started by penguin - Last post by penguin
I think I realize what I have done here, and I am looking once again to tap into the wisdom of the kind forum members for assistance.

I was just performing the routine maintenance on my kicker and main motor today [oil change for the four stroke kicker, and spark plugs, lower leg gear lube change etc.].  I changed the two plugs in my 8 hp Yamaha four stroke and here everything went well. Then I removed the starboard side top spark plug from my 1996 90hp two-stroke Johnson.   I carefully started screwing in the new plug. I used my fingers and it went in smoothly and normally until I reached the point where I went to tighten it down with my torque wrench. When I started tightening it with my torque wrench it got tight but then got real loose!  The threads are stripped!!  I don't know how it happened, since you can usually tell right away when threads aren't lined up as you get resistance pretty much immediately. It looks like I might have done the same on the second plug on the starboard side!  I'm pretty angry and disappointed. Maybe my previous mechanic did something wrong when he screwed the old plugs in, but I can't be sure. Maybe it's just me. Does this happen regularly? Can the cylinder heads deteriorate?

Anyway, the damage is done and, based on my research, it looks like I have two options:

1.  A product called Helicoil that can be used to essentially put new threads in the cylinder head.
2.  A new cylinder head.

Based on some quick Internet research, it looks like a new cylinder head, along with gaskets and other required parts will set me back about $100 or little more.  Installation, of course, will cost more, probably quite a bit more, although I have read that is apparently not a difficult thing to replace.  I don't know the cost of the Helicoil or what it might cost to have that installed.

Do any of you guys have experience with this sort of thing and can offer some guidance or advice? Specifically, I am wondering:

1.  Which is the better option in terms of reliability and longevity?  Cylinder head replacement or Helicoil?
2.  Are either option something I could do myself? [I know, I can't even screw a spark plug in straight, so maybe I should not even try!]
3.  Any idea as to the ballpark costs of having either option done by a mechanic? Probably a lot, but I'm just really not even sure.

I've got to keep my 90 two stroke Johnson going until I build my Tolman or GA.

Rod

 56 
 on: April 20, 2014, 01:06:58 PM 
Started by adam_k - Last post by adam_k
Bob, that's really cool.   Cool

 57 
 on: April 20, 2014, 12:04:09 PM 
Started by adam_k - Last post by luk diver
 Turns out there are 2 outlets on our belly-tank so just plumbed a regular fuel hose onto it with the squeeze-bulb and Yamaha tank fitting. Didn't even bother with shutoff valve as tank fitting acts as a shutoff with O-ring and I hold it up off the floor anyways. Fitting was on back of tank so had to drop the hose thru the deck behind the drivers seatbox but ok so far. Originally we stood the 12g totes behind the seatboxes but lost that advantage when I put the pocket-doors on to close off the pilothouse opening. One project I'm tackling is to pull the tank fitting as it has a metal mesh screen that restricts the flow. I use the fuel flow meter to guage when I can start dumping the tank into the belly tank otherwise it could overflow? Probably not as the syphon would stop flowing at some point? B & B

 58 
 on: April 20, 2014, 08:50:48 AM 
Started by adam_k - Last post by adam_k
Those new style spouts are garbage.  They get more gas on the ground than in the tank.  Thanks for that link Jim.  Bob, how did you plumb the line into your main tank?  I am using my five for topping off at the dock.  I only burn .2 gallons per hour on the troll.  So the fiver tops off the tank after a day on the water.  Plastic, definitely the way to go if bringing the can on the water.  The metal tank that I got would scratch the holy hell out of the boat, and it might rust.   

 59 
 on: April 20, 2014, 08:26:38 AM 
Started by steveoh - Last post by flatsjunky
You got it Chuck, may cost you some cigar. Good idea on supporting Steve as soon as I recover from the Texas trip.  Keep you posted on Springers.

 60 
 on: April 20, 2014, 07:21:56 AM 
Started by adam_k - Last post by Lyle
I still have 8 of the 1980,s vintage Rubbermaid 5 gals. I treat them like the fine tools they are. Spouts are still flexible, pour quickly, low stance-stable, easy to tie down , non marring on board the skiff, ,etc... Daughter brought home a new epa style - WE ARE GOING BACKWARDS WITH THESE THINGS. I tore the spout up immediately and modified to vent as in Jims video link. I will not conform!!

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