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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: PVC Pipe What caulk?
« Last post by elkhunter338 on March 21, 2018, 06:30:11 PM »
silicon does not stick well to anything.  If it was my boat I would use vulkem 116 caulking, I have had very good luck with this on many surfaces, it takes a week or two to fully cure but sticks very well to most things.  If you over size the hole thru the bulk head so you can get a good bead of caulking this will allow for expansion/contraction without breaking the joint. 
I glued a piece of alum. angle on a side window on my old boat to use for a handle to slide the window open/closed, vulkem held when every thing else I tried failed. 
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Kinky hull modifications
« Last post by Surfrat81 on March 21, 2018, 04:11:48 PM »
Thanks for this one...

Great read.

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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Material Selection
« Last post by Rbob on March 21, 2018, 04:03:48 PM »
Lately I have seen some interest in Ipe for rubrails, strakes, etc.  It meets the dense, durable, rot resistant charachteristics to perfection.  Although harder than a true mahoghany, it is also somewhat heavier but since the rails and strakes aresmall  percentage of the overall boat, it might be forgiven on this account for its other virtues?  It is not particularly kind to edged tools and screws will need to be pre-drilled but it is workable.  I am guessing it falls in a similar price range as a true mahoghany depending on availability in your area.  It is getting very common around here for exterior decking.  I feel it is a reasonable and cost effective substitute for teak which many old time boat builders will say was made specifically by God for rub rails.

Tropical Hardwoods can present some difficulties in gluing. If you decide to use ipe, study up on how to glue it up.

I added IPE 1/4 "shoes"  glued on with G-flex as recommended here.  Actually I glued all the rubrails and strakes on with G-glex.  I bought 1 - 1x8 x 12' IPE decking board for $30 and it cuts easy with 24t carbide table-saw, just pre-drill before gluing and wipe the IPE down 3 times with denatured alcohol before applying the G-flex.  Just snug up the screws until  G-flex oozes out, no need to overtighten.  File the edges of the IPE or you could have splinters all the way to your cuticle's....  I filled the screw holes with G-glex with a syringe.  The plywood strip I used to temporary attached the meranti base and pulled the brads the next morning.  If you use brads you may have to heat them with a micro torch to pull without breaking them off, You can get 316 stainless brads (amazon) which I did but I pulled those also. 

General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Thoughts on a Shrunken Standard/WB
« Last post by gdwamsley on March 21, 2018, 03:01:33 PM »
That's great yooper.  Actually rivals the cost of an aluminum boat.

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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Thoughts on a Shrunken Standard/WB
« Last post by yooper52 on March 21, 2018, 12:21:56 PM »
Mine's about 180 pounds empty.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Thoughts on a Shrunken Standard/WB
« Last post by Shallow Minded on March 21, 2018, 10:56:52 AM »
What does a Diablo 15 hull weigh?

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General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Napa CA widebody build
« Last post by badger27 on March 21, 2018, 09:42:25 AM »
Hey guys

My spray rails are 3 in. up from the chine. I moved them down in imitation of the Radon "double chine" (Part of the general imitation of the Santa Barbera style).
I extended them up to the bow and angled them up more. I left them off in the bow initially because the upward curve was to dramatic to make them out of solid lumber.  I solved this by stacking them out of 1/4 in ply on the new ones. I sloped them up to give the boat more lift in following seas. My boat is an extended widebody. Perhaps it is too long for the amount of buoyancy in the bow. (i.e. to long and narrow) Its all part of the extended widebody blues.

I think the extended widebody is part of my feeling of top heavy ness. There is a reason for the Jumbo. It is bigger and  heavier and wider. All better for cabins. I felt top heavy rolling around crossing the bar getting in and out of the SF bay. It gets peaky and lumpy in a particular way. So far the new boat feels a bit better. I fell like the new arrangement is better for the widebody. My old cabin would have been better on  a Jumbo.

Luk Diver's boat is a Jumbo?

General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Thoughts on a Shrunken Standard/WB
« Last post by yooper52 on March 21, 2018, 09:17:15 AM »
I built a Diablo in July 1999 while working full time. Simple build, cost about $500 then. I would modify the transom a bit if doing it again, to fit a trolling motor beside the main. We have had 8 humans and a Lab aboard, it could handle more weight. I painted it with Rustoleum I had on hand. Good boat. We transported it on a utility trailer for a little while.  Two guys could lift it and put it in the lake. Before we got an outboard and a boat trailer.
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Fuel Filter Water separator
« Last post by pfithian on March 21, 2018, 04:22:28 AM »
Two outlets means your tank could also be used for diesel, which has a return line.  If you want a separate line for the kicker, take it off the fuel water head fitting.  There are usually four ports on them...two inlets and two outlets.

This is correct!
General Discussion Tolman Skiffs / Re: Material Selection
« Last post by pfithian on March 21, 2018, 04:16:45 AM »

If it were me, I would round the bottom/transom corner (3/8" radius) like always, glass the seam and the boat ... and when almost ready to apply the black graphite epoxy or bottom coat, I'd pause and put the sharpened edge on.  Lightly sand with 100 grit and wash/wipe off well.  I would just use epoxy thickened with silica ... tough as nails for the sharpened edge.  Just run thick bead (more than needed) along the corner and use a trowel to shape it by sliding along the bottom of the transom and the boat bottom.  It won't be perfect - but don't worry about hollows and try to smooth out bumps (harder to remove when cured if using straight silica).  Let it cure and fill/sand until it's nice.  THEN finish coat the bottom of the boat.  That's what I would do anyway...


That's exactly how I did it on my build

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