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 on: February 24, 2015, 10:07:53 PM 
Started by cgrfish - Last post by Mo 'Poxy
Don't clean your cheap epoxy brushes, just put them in a plastic sandwich bag and pop them in the freezer till you need them.

That worked for me until the day I came home from work and found my 8YO son sucking on an epoxy-saturated chip brush.

 on: February 24, 2015, 09:52:33 PM 
Started by gdwamsley - Last post by Tebubaga
Your first time doing this?

From my experience here's how I would do it. Assuming you're starting with bare plywood and the temperature isn't too far above 70 degrees. I think it's better to be a little colder (like 65) as this will give you time to work this out. You don't want the epoxy going off while you're trying to get the glass on!  Shocked

Make up a 16oz batch. Pour some of it in one corner of the plywood, spread it to the closest edges with a plastic spreader, work your way across the narrow way to the other edge and then work your way up the long way. Spread it with a light hand, you need to leave enough epoxy for it to soak into the wood, not starve it. Don't overwork the epoxy, if you do it'll start to get milky and that means you're mixing air into it and that's not helpful, you should probably throw that away as you can't ever get the air out and it will sit on top of the wood and won't properly wet out the glass. It even makes lousy peanut-butter.

Be patient!

It's easy to get in an all fired hurry, think you're done and then find dry spots where the wood kept absorbing epoxy. And it's best in my opinion to not be trying to get more epoxy through the glass to those dry areas. You can do it, but doing it without getting too much epoxy...

16oz probably won't be enough (but less might be for the second batch, judgement call here) so mix another batch and keep on spreading, but don't pour it all on unless it looks like you'll need it. Pay attention to areas you've already spread, you'll probably need to add more in some areas and pull some off others. Again, be patient! Don't overwork the epoxy!

Once the wood has stopped soaking the epoxy take your glass that you've rolled up on a length of pvc pipe and roll it out on the plywood. Get your alignment right! If you've left too much epoxy on the wood, this'll get messy, if you've got the right amount the glass won't want to move unless you pick it up. Time to add more epoxy, but this time you must be more judicious, a little at a time; too much epoxy and you'll float the glass and there's no easy way to get it out/off. My preferred way of doing this is with a six inch disposable roller (some use foam, I used 1/4 nap rollers). I hate plastic spreaders for this work as I always make a mess of the glass.

Pour on some epoxy, again starting in a corner and use that roller to gently, but firmly, move that epoxy around. Again, just like the wood you need to be patient and let the glass absorb the epoxy. At this point I think it's ok to not quite put on enough epoxy. It's easier to add a little dollop in a dry spot (it's an obvious whitish area) and fill it in than it is to try and get the extra epoxy out from under the glass, the extra in the glass, and the extra off the glass, without the glass sliding all over the place and making a mess.

You'll know you've got too much epoxy in play when the glass starts to slide around. At that point, only concentrated firm pressure with a roller will give you any hope. Start in the middle and work out in a radial pattern pushing the epoxy toward the edge.

You know you've got the right amount of epoxy when there's no whitish areas, the glass has gone clear, and you can clearly see the weave.

The best glass work I did on my boat was in the splashwell and that was the last major glass work I did on the boat. That's when all the things I've shared above really came together for me.

Good luck!

BTW... after you've done this a few times, yes, you can put glass on dry wood and do the epoxy work all in one step, but I wouldn't advise that until you've had a few practice runs and get a feel for how it works.  Wink

 on: February 24, 2015, 07:59:03 PM 
Started by elkhunter338 - Last post by Dave Wright
It just might be, as solid wood gets shittier and ply gets more expensive, that you could strip build the shelves from rippings cut from big box store lumber. Strips in convenient lengths of 3/4" wide by 1 1/8" deep could be laminated up right on top of the template. Six strips would give 4.5 inch wide shelves.

 on: February 24, 2015, 07:22:09 PM 
Started by gdwamsley - Last post by adam_k
Do you plan on a wet coat prior to laying the glass?  I personally prefer a wet coat and then laying the glass onto that.  I don't like mixing big batches of epoxy, I would just mix up small batches until the job is done.  I also prefer using a 6inch taping knife to spread the epoxy onto the wood or glass.  That's how I would do it anyway. 

 on: February 24, 2015, 04:54:54 PM 
Started by gdwamsley - Last post by gdwamsley
I am about to glass up my rear side panels for a standard 32"x10' and wasn't sure how big a batch of epoxy to mix up.  I was thinking like a 12 or 16 ounce batch.  I'm not worried about it setting up too quickly as I will pour it on and spread it with a roller.  I just don't want to waste if I can avoid it didn't know if anyone had a recollection for an appropriate batch size.  Obviously if I'm short I can mix up a bit more.

Guess I should mention I'm using 6oz glass and aeromarine epoxy.

Also how quickly would you add a 2nd coat for a wet on wet application?  I was thinking like 3 or 4 hrs.  Probably want it to set up some so you don't float the glass right?

 on: February 24, 2015, 02:08:44 PM 
Started by elkhunter338 - Last post by David Nolan
adding dowels sounds like a bad idea and maybe youd gain strength if you are a good woodworker, but I still think it sounds iffy.     If you make the cut like in the book, you will be fine.   and if you are worried, glass the edges both sides.

Once in the boat it isnt going to break, and it isnt going to matter too much.     I think these are more as a building aid and defines the boats shape, not really taking too much of a load in the boat once built.   Probably the most danger they are ever in is the first time you pick them up if you dont wait long enough for the epoxy to gain full strength

 on: February 24, 2015, 12:19:20 PM 
Started by cgrfish - Last post by tananaBrian
On piano hinges that I've painted in the past, the paint ends up cracking and chipping off on the hinge part itself due to repeated mechanical stress.  As as for looks, I like shiny stainless and think it looks fine without paint, especially in a boat, even more especially if all the hinges in the boat match.  You can buy piano hinge material that is longer than you need, and then cut it down, but then a) they sometimes arrive in the mail bent, and b) after cutting them to length, I find that I'm not mechanically adept enough to give them really nice rounded corners and what not.  Because of that (my lack of skill), I like using ones that are pre-made to a length that'll work as-is.


 on: February 24, 2015, 11:25:19 AM 
Started by elkhunter338 - Last post by Dave Wright
Well Parr took back the poor plywood, all 3 sheets, full refund.  I did have an e-mail saying I wanted good plywood with minimal or no voids.

Next we went thru what was available in versa-lam products, nothing available in the 1 1/16- 1 1/4 range, They had some OSB rim board, but not versa-lam ply.

I ordered 2x6 and 2x8 (#1 grade, KD, Doug Fir), The first front shelf I will have to glue a section on to make it wide enough like Renn shows on page 72 skiff for all seasons.  I plan to add some dowels for strength.  The next section I can cut from a 2x8 then the remaining straight 4" I will cut out of a 16' 2x6 to minimize splices.  I only need about 13 feet, but the 2x6's only came in 16'.

Once the boat is turned over I will cap the shelf with 1/2 marine plywood as Renn shows on pg. 69 skiff for all seasons.
Run a nice white oak inside trim and rub rail.  All rounded corners.

I hope this works well for you. On my Standard I used No. 1 Select fir for shelves just as you are planning. I also used it for stringers. I got that stuff from Comstock lumber in Seattle (13 years ago), it was actually dry and stored inside their heated building. They were nice and let me pick through the stack. There were tremendous differences in the planks in that stack even though all were No. 1 Select. The material I picked worked great in my Standard. If I had taken some other specimens from that stack I would have had some building difficulties.

I'm just an amateur, not a professional woodworker, so I my opinion may not be worth snot. But, if you're ordering those planks, then someone is picking them for you. Parr will get them from their supplier, they'll be kiln dried and and likely sitting in a stack, outdoors in an open yard, covered by a white plastic tarp that's been blowing in the breeze. The guys who pull them from the pile are talking about what they did last night, they don't look at the planks, they just pull the easy access ones off the pile and send them on, in between good natured chatter and anticipation of lunch. 30 years ago this wouldn't matter, but lumber quality has gone way down. Look carefully at those planks when you go to pick 'em up. It' hard to do this, but do your best.

Again on my current Widebody I got No1 Select fir, kiln dried. The place I got them from had them stacked outside in a pile under a white tarp. They weren't keen on me digging through their pile, I would have liked to have been more selective. The planks I used for my stringers are great, straight and true. I had two apparently nice planks that I intended to use for shelves, they looked good. So, remember, I'm an amateur here, but with one of those planks I quickly got it down to 1 1/8" thickness by passing it through my table saw on edge, flipping to get full cut. This removed 3/8" thickness from one side of the 1 1/2" thick plank. It looking great and the wood felt dry. I came back to glue up a day and a half later. That 1 1/8" thick son of a bitchin' plank was cupped like you wouldn't believe! Cupped so bad that it was unusable and I burnt it. That's when I bit the bullet and bought marine ply for my forward shelves.

I'm not saying that this will happen to you. I'm an amateur. Maybe if I had removed material equally from both sides of the plank this wouldn't have happened? I don't know?  But,  if I were you, and if you have a little extra meat on those planks, maybe cut six inches off and cut it, plane it, whatever, to see if there are any surprises.

It's hard to get good run of the mill construction lumber without carefully picking it yourself (unless you buy the vertical grain clear stuff in fir, or nice imported mahogany, but both break the bank). If you stop at interpretive centers in the national Forrests you can visit booths by Weyerhauser and Boise Cascade. They show you the old slow growing tight ringed lumber, then they show you the new fast growing lumber with rings a half inch apart. They tell you how great the new lumber is, it grows three times faster and is better than sliced bread. That's the way it is. Shit is now labelled as gold and we have to live with it. Sorry for the rant, and best wishes to you.

 on: February 24, 2015, 08:34:42 AM 
Started by cgrfish - Last post by pfithian
I'd use piano hinges, but don't paint them.

 on: February 24, 2015, 07:17:18 AM 
Started by cgrfish - Last post by cgrfish
I'm needing to get my hinges ordered for various parts of the boat, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to use or where to get them.

For the pilot house door, seat box covers, and fish box, I'm planning on stainless piano hinges.  For the cabinets in the galley and cabin, I'm unsure what to use, but piano hinges seem like the most stable solution, but I'm not sure how they will look.

Does anyone have any experience painting piano hinges?  Will they take and hold paint ok?  If they paint ok, then I'm inclined to use piano hinges for the whole thing.

I'd appreciate any input you can give!


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