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 on: January 22, 2015, 06:13:41 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by Dave B
All good information and it's appreciated!  A kicker on a bracket won't work for me, but it appears there's room on the transom as built.  For the life of me I can't find the spec's I need online, so I'll just get them from the dealer.  In the meantime, I went over to a friend's house today who has a 115B and a T8 and measured his distances.  His transom cutout is over 70" and so the main is mounted in the center, and the kicker is 22" to starboard.  I don't know yet how much larger the 9.9 might be, but it appears all is well.  When you think about it, there are literally thousands of boat out there set up just like my friends, and I don't hear anyone complaining that their boat lists to one side because of the outboards.  I'm more and more convinced that if you're somewhere close, it's plenty good enough.

 on: January 22, 2015, 04:02:21 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by jim shula
I think you just need to mount the main and kicker so they physically work in tandem without interfering, then use the balance formula to see where you should place other things like the batteries to make up for the imbalance provided by the motors.  I offset my main 9" because I knew I was only using a 6hp kicker, and they work fine together with no interference.  After the main was bolted up, I could clamp the kicker where it needed to be. 

Before I drilled the mounting holes for the main I went to the Tohatsu website and printed out all the specs for the main and kicker.  Then I made cardboard templates of each motor and moved them around the transom.  I also swiveled them on their axis to determine interference.  That's how I found that a 9" offset would work for my particular motors.

 on: January 22, 2015, 02:35:00 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by tolman_paul
Another option is to go with a narrow cutout for the main and mount the kicker on the bracket.

I just can't like an offset main, though I know it works fine.  As my drywell is also narrow I can get all the way back to the transom and have no problems reaching the kicker.  If you're someone who frequently runs the kicker and wants to link it to the main for steering this probably won't work for you.

 on: January 22, 2015, 09:00:05 AM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by cgrfish
When I was pondering this, I went to Maxxum marine and Lloyd and I went out with a tape in hand, and looked at various customer boats in the yard to see what the spacing was.  We found that 22" on center, leaving about 10" between the motor brackets, appeared to work, but it was  uncomfortably tight.   In looking at various boats, the motors that were very tight and appeared they could have conflict between the motors went down as close as 10" between the brackets,  and the ones that appeared to be close but comfortable were up around 14" plus between brackets, or approximately 26" plus on centers.  I was not comfortable on the 22" mark.     

The frustrating thing is I cant find my notes on what I decided to do.  I drilled and re filled the holes for the main, and I will have to go measure and see where I put them.   I went with a 52" opening to allow a little extra space, but at this point I cant remember what I decided.  Its all still hypothetical, because although I went through the thought process, I haven't hung the motors yet.


 on: January 22, 2015, 05:44:31 AM 
Started by elkhunter338 - Last post by cgrfish
Thats very similar to the approach I took, and it has worked well.  My goal was to glass and epoxy all the critical joints while I had good temperatures, and if I was playing with heaters to limit my work to less critical areas of the boat.  Thus, my first summer I worked hard to get flipped, and then continued glassing the inside joints on the stringers before the temperature dropped.  That left me with confidence that I have a hull structure that is strong and sound.   The first winter I worked on building the storage under the cuddy cabin, anchor well, and such, using the  tarps and heaters, which worked ok, but not great.    My business is seasonal, so much of the winter I just dont have boat time available, so that was all I got done the first winter.  I finished the exterior build of the cabin and rear deck during summer number two, and have been working inside the cabin this winter, but, again, boat time is about to come to a stop till may.   This winter, with the cabin in place, I purchased some one inch rigid foam insulation and zip tied it to the windows of the cabin, and it has been much easier to keep the work area warm and comfortable.

It sounds like you've got a good plan in place.  Hopefully I will be launched this summer, and we can get you out for a ride at newport to help keep the enthusiasm moving forward!


 on: January 21, 2015, 10:39:28 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by bleu
 Sorry, I don't have a kicker.

 on: January 21, 2015, 10:12:37 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by pfithian
I checked the Yamaha web site, they show different displacements and weights for the 90 and 115 motors. So they are different.

The comments I made in the previous post reflect motors of different HP that have the same displacement and weight specs.

 on: January 21, 2015, 09:56:04 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by Dave B
Yes I have a brand new one and I can't believe how good it is, light, quite, efficient, and perfect amount of power.  I am sure if I got a e tec, Suzuki, merc, tohatsu, ext. I would be just as happy, I think that almost all of the new outboards are extremely good, and you have to look at support for your area and price. The Hull design of these skiffs and there light weight are where it is at for performance. I went with yamaha because some of my friends have insane amounts of commercial hrs on theres, mine could blow up at 500 hrs just as easy as any of the other brands or last 2,000+. Just because it is the engine I bought does not in any way make me think I bought the best engine out there. I have never run any other engine on my boat so there is no way can I say that.

That's really good news!  Do you also have a kicker?  Could you tell me their distance apart?

 on: January 21, 2015, 09:54:38 PM 
Started by Dave B - Last post by Dave B
I've spent a good part of the afternoon researching and trying to figure out the best placements for my future engines based on this thread and the earlier one.  I went back and re-checked what Renn had to say about it in his book and found that he recommended the main be offset by about 10" to allow plenty of room for both the main and kicker to swing on the 48" transom opening.  Of course he also cautions that we need to check it against whatever engines are being used.  After running a bunch of calculations however, I really doubt he was worrying much with balancing them.  That also made me wonder how important the balancing really is because he was extremely successful with these boats and the balance must not have bothered him.  Sure wish he was around to ask.......

From there I tried to find current spec's on potential engines and for now I'm still considering the Yamaha 115B and 9.9HT kicker (if I end up going with a 90 it should be in the same ball park).  Unfortunately so far, I've not been able to find good current data and so I had to make some educated guesses.  The biggest unknown is exactly how far apart these 2 engines have to be without hitting one another.  I can find where the old 115A's are supposed to have 26" between them if you're running twins, but that's WAY more then needed for simply mounting a kicker next to a single.  If that was really a correct critical number, then I'd be out of luck because the math would put the kicker 20" off center which only leaves 4" of clearance to the starboard edge of the transom.  

Unless someone has a different idea, I've come to the conclusion that the only way to truly find the needed distance between the 2 engines is to temporarily hang them on the transom and move them back and forth until you find out how close they can be without interfering with one another.  Once you have that distance and their weights then the math is a cinch.  Just for instance, if the magic distance turns out to be 22", then the main will be offset by 5" and the kicker by 15".  That would be doable.

In an earlier post we talked about how much the transom needed to be raised to accomdate the offset main.  In checking, Renn said to raise it .14" for every inch off center.  Since he recommended 10", he said to raise it 1.4 or about 1-3/8".  That's how I built mine and since the main wont' be over quite that far, I'm a little higher then needed.  Pretty sure it's close enough.

 on: January 21, 2015, 09:49:04 PM 
Started by elkhunter338 - Last post by elkhunter338
I have basically come to the conclusion in an unheated shop I have to epoxy June-Sept. is my time window based on temperature research I just did.  Might get a week or so in Oct/Nov and April/May.  Heating my shop is not practical it's 20x50 with 16' walls, I might try a tarp and 2 (1500 watt oil heater) to see what that will do.

So I have determined I need to get the Hull flipped and ready for the cabin by Sept.  That way I can spend all winter fitting the cabin, cutting/fitting the floor, mounting fuel tank, hold all the parts together with blocks and wood screws, finding and getting a trailer, finalizing motor selection (Portland, OR boat show is in Jan.  good place to shop for motors and trailer)  Then come spring I can disassemble and start reassembly with epoxy. With taking some vacation and having the wife/son help painting I would hope to be ready by July salmon season.

I think due to finances I will plan on ordering my kit pre cut stringers included next year about this time for a April delivery. 
That will let me get all my known projects done around the house, I can fiberglass/epoxy my current boats I/O dog house, side panels, and such.  Get the boat all ready to sell.  Use it summer 2015/16 and use the Jumbo summer 2017.
Of course best layed plans are always bound to change.  I am an engineer so I like plans and spreadsheets.

I will start looking for a used trailer now and maybe if some lightly used newer outboards.  If I can find real good deals.

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