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 41 
 on: July 24, 2014, 09:28:05 PM 
Started by Vgager - Last post by larspa
Having chatted up Ray and looked over his Tolman, I have to confess to being more than a bit intimidated.  He has produced a boat that is a fine bit of work, well thought out and carefully detailed.  Wow!  If mine turns out half as good as Ray's, I'll be proud as heck.

te

 42 
 on: July 24, 2014, 09:22:08 PM 
Started by TFreeburg - Last post by TFreeburg
So I may run out of System Three Epoxy on my Pygmy Kayak on the way to my Peeler Skiff, on the way to my Tolman Jumbo.  Any strong sentiments on where and why to purchase?
Tom Freeburg
Snohomish

 43 
 on: July 24, 2014, 07:47:55 PM 
Started by MikeS - Last post by David Nolan
Take ur time mike.     


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 44 
 on: July 24, 2014, 07:32:59 PM 
Started by jerry bark - Last post by penguin
Jerry,

 Sorry for pestering you with 1 more question...ok it might not be the last one  Grin

 The install diagram shows a ground symbol on the busbar (2nd screw) that looks like it goes to the boat. Am I reading that wrong? Where do you put that ground wire on an outboard powered boat?

Thanks

Randy

Connect that to the negative battery terminal.

BTW, I did not see any issues in your latest wiring diagram. I would up size the battery cable, but that is just me. I think for short runs #4 is large enough but if you price out #2 or #1 you will find it does not cost much more. I used #1 the guy who installed my motor thought it was waay overkill.

Another thought on the battery and add-a-battery kit installation: I bought my battery cable and pug ends from a local electrical supply house. they have a very large crimper that is specially made to crimp large lugs, and has custom dies to match each lug. They loan this out and it makes it very easy to make great connections. They also sell adhesive lined heat shrink tubing in many sizes. So my cables are carefully crimped and heat shrink covered. If you can find a local place that sells the same crimps and has a loaner crimper I think its worth the trouble.

I'm with you Jerry on the overkill. I prefer overkill rather than the reverse.  Overkill rarely causes a problem other than maybe costing a bit of time, money or both.  The problem with "underkill" is that if the risk of a problem materializes, it can cost much more than time or money. Of course it depends what we are talking about, but if it's anything where underkill could create a safety risk, it's obviously not worth it in my opinion. That's no place to take a shortcut or try to save some cash. Wiring a boat is one of those situations. I did some overkill when I rewired my (non-Tolman) boat a few years ago and when I build my Tolman/GA I'll do the same. 

Rod

 45 
 on: July 24, 2014, 05:09:39 PM 
Started by jerry bark - Last post by Randy Zimmerman
Thanks Jerry. I'll check our local electric supply house to see what they can offer. I did order the #4 cables from Genuinedealz and had them put the lugs on for me. I was excited to move forward :-)

Like you, I think for my loads it should be fine but I really appreciate the second look. Doing that diagram taught me a lot. I wanted to list all the details of screw sizes and components used.

I'm sure that it will payoff for a long time for trouble shooting and hopefully help other builders as we'll. I'll get the console done this weekend and post.

Thanks again for your help.

Randy


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 46 
 on: July 24, 2014, 04:06:28 PM 
Started by jerry bark - Last post by jerry bark
Jerry,

 Sorry for pestering you with 1 more question...ok it might not be the last one  Grin

 The install diagram shows a ground symbol on the busbar (2nd screw) that looks like it goes to the boat. Am I reading that wrong? Where do you put that ground wire on an outboard powered boat?

Thanks

Randy

Connect that to the negative battery terminal.

BTW, I did not see any issues in your latest wiring diagram. I would up size the battery cable, but that is just me. I think for short runs #4 is large enough but if you price out #2 or #1 you will find it does not cost much more. I used #1 the guy who installed my motor thought it was waay overkill.

Another thought on the battery and add-a-battery kit installation: I bought my battery cable and pug ends from a local electrical supply house. they have a very large crimper that is specially made to crimp large lugs, and has custom dies to match each lug. They loan this out and it makes it very easy to make great connections. They also sell adhesive lined heat shrink tubing in many sizes. So my cables are carefully crimped and heat shrink covered. If you can find a local place that sells the same crimps and has a loaner crimper I think its worth the trouble.

 47 
 on: July 24, 2014, 02:13:44 PM 
Started by Randy Zimmerman - Last post by Randy Zimmerman
Peter,

 Checked the tank and the top of the fill is 3 1/2" above the deck.

Randy


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 48 
 on: July 24, 2014, 11:59:42 AM 
Started by MikeS - Last post by MikeS
And I got rid of the palm tree as my little picture on the side. Its over for the palm tree. Got a pierogi up there for now.

 49 
 on: July 24, 2014, 11:42:16 AM 
Started by MikeS - Last post by MikeS
Thanks guys. Sorry you can relate about the gout Paul. It sure will stop you in your tracks. It has caused me to almost become a vegetarian. Had to give up the beer also. I agree about the cherry juice, I get the raw extract from the health food store. Its like cherry syrup. Gout is bad, sick family is worse - especially kids. Life is full of crisis for all. If you get a quiet spell, take a deep breath & enjoy it.

 50 
 on: July 24, 2014, 10:48:06 AM 
Started by MikeS - Last post by flatsjunky
Good choice.  Having spent alot of time in South Fla. fishing a CC with B top is the boat if fishing is the game.  However, if crusing and overnight camping is the main use, then cuddy and wheel house is the boat.  The cc reduces wind resistence for both better  MPG and with the winds you get down there takes away the sail affect when trying to dock.  I belive David will agree, that trying to dock in a 15 Knt cross wind is a bear with a wheel house installed.

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