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 on: September 18, 2014, 12:40:34 PM 
Started by BillW - Last post by jim shula
I pointed out that hollow area in the chine line to Renn when he was here for the boat show.  He said he wasn't aware of it until I showed him, and added that he hoped builders would realize it and just make it fair.  I moved it up in my bottom panel files to 13 5/8" I think.  Even if you use the published numbers as many builders probably have done it doesn't make a whole lot of difference because at that point the panel is more vertical than flat when stitched together, creating a minor gap to fill with thickened epoxy.

 on: September 18, 2014, 12:25:53 PM 
Started by BillW - Last post by fjolsen
If I am remembering correctly, I had a similar hang-up laying out my jumbo bottom panels. The group's response was to just make the line fair. I just let the batten bend naturally at this point (let it come off the mark) and all is well and good. You'll probably run into a few other numbers that seem off in the book. Just make it look good.
Maybe one of the guys making CNC kits has the right numbers here?

 on: September 18, 2014, 12:22:46 PM 
Started by BillW - Last post by tolman_paul
As I recall there was an oops in the offsets, but I'd have to check my notes.

Looks like you found it  Cheesy

 on: September 18, 2014, 11:30:55 AM 
Started by BillW - Last post by BillW

I'm doing some layout and planning. I drew the bottom panel for Standard and Widebody, to scale, according to Fig. 11-5, page 94.

It looks to me as if the table of stations and offsets reads

Distances   0        6          12
Chine        12    13 1/8     15ΒΌ

But when I draw to those dimensions, I get a shark fin and the chine does not look right at station 6-inches. I triple checked my drawing.

Should the "13 1/8" chine offset be something different?

 on: September 18, 2014, 11:30:27 AM 
Started by pfithian - Last post by David Nolan
the chain reduces wear on the line but most importantly keeps the angle of the line pulling horizontally

try it out one day with a small danforth and vary the chain and pull form different angles.    its real clear whats going on.   forget the plastic white coated chains too.  you want a big hulky rusting one like i have.  the rust gives your boat a nice workboat look

 on: September 18, 2014, 11:25:49 AM 
Started by pfithian - Last post by starbright55
I have 6' of chain on the Lewmar claw, and always let out plenty of scope.
I was always told minimum of your boat length in chain with 1.5x being better.

My 5000 lb, 24 ft. rib has 40 ft of 1/4" chain too 300 ft. of line on a 16 lb Danforth. The nice thing is (per Chapmans) you can reduce scope to 3:1 in most conditions when using all chain rode - so, in 13 ft or less of water, all that goes out is the chain.

I will be getting a smaller anchor to have on deck for quick(er) surf/dive stops when I finish my deck anchor locker (that thread has been languishing and once the house projects are done, I need to finish it!).

 on: September 18, 2014, 09:27:31 AM 
Started by Kiwi Jon - Last post by tolman_paul
The plate should be above the bottom of the V for best performance.  After the water leaves the back edge of the hull it starts moving upwards and ideally the plate should be at the level of the water at the location of the plate.  If you have the plate at the bottom of the V you'll have additional drag and loose speed.

I had to lift my engine  1 1/2" above the cutout to get the plate at the right height and hence making the transom a bit higher wouldn't hurt.

 on: September 18, 2014, 08:43:17 AM 
Started by pfithian - Last post by pfithian
I think you should use your snorkel to check out the anchor sets you are getting with your anchor rig this trip. You might be able to figure out the issue that way.

Thanks Jerry, I plan on doing that.  Will likely be anchoring in less than 10' of water, and I'll take some pictures of both anchors in the tandem set up with the underwater Fuji digital camera we have.  And I agree, scope on the rode is essential in a blow.

I applied a top coat of the Steel It stainless epoxy coating early this morning, here's what it looks like:

 on: September 18, 2014, 06:48:52 AM 
Started by pfithian - Last post by jerry bark

I think you should use your snorkel to check out the anchor sets you are getting with your anchor rig this trip. You might be able to figure out the issue that way.

I don't know how deep these grass beds are but I am assuming less than 20 feet of water. I would figure on 150 - 200 feet of rode if you know its going to be windy in that depth. This is one case where more really is more, to a point.

I favor more chain over less, in really snotty conditions it does not matter much how much chain you have but in nice to fair it sure does reduce the PITA anchor drags.

I have a 12 pound lewmar like your 17.5 and have used it to anchor my boat with a pontoon tied to it on my lake here a few times. Holds great in the sand/mud bottom we have. Based on my experience the 17.5 should be large enough for your jumbo if it is setting right. I have heard that the claw style is not a good type for grass though. That is why I think you should snorkel and take a look at how it is setting. If it is setting right in the grass then you simply need a bigger size for those windy days, if its not setting right then its time to go shopping. Using a tandem with a primary anchor that is not setting right will not help much IMO>


Side note:  That danforth will be a great stern anchor when you want to hang out on a remote beach! Carry it up to shallow water and put it in by hand to hold the stern to the beach. Good score for $12.

 on: September 18, 2014, 06:06:19 AM 
Started by NSchlee - Last post by jerry bark
There is something to it, the earth has and always will go through temperature cycles.  It's how the Great Glaciers became the Great Lakes.  If there had not been global warming since then, I wouldn't be able to live near the beach on southern Lake Michigan.

Paul you are entirely correct. Global climate change is and always has been going on. I do not know of any scientist that disputes that fact.

It just doesn't have anything to do with what humans are doing.

This is where things get sticky. There are many respected scientists who argue on both sides of this issue. I will admit that as a person with degrees in Physics and Geophysics I am not expert on the climate change research. What I am pretty good at is looking at evidence and reaching conclusions based on evidence. From my point of view I have not yet seen any evidence that is compelling enough for me to reach the conclusion that our current rate of climate change is anything other than naturally occurring, we may be hurrying things along a bit by burning coal, oil and natural gas but it would be happening regardless.

It is also common for folks to confuse weather patterns with climate. Weather occurs locally and varies daily, even hourly at times. Whereas climate is a global interpretation of the Earth's overall temperature and weather pattern zones.  Weather varies daily and seasonally, climate varies over much longer time periods, typically decades at a minimum though centuries are a much better time scale for climate change observations.

It is well understood that small changes in climate cause more dramatic weather patterns. I can point out that Michigan had one of the coldest winters on record last year. We also had one of the hottest summers on record directly before. It would be a mistake to interpret either as evidence of global warming, or cooling. While weather is influenced by climate, weather is not an indicator of climatic conditions.

That said, go ahead and cheer for, or against, global warming as you prefer. It's much more fun that watching political ads or worrying about what the Kardashians are up to.


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