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 on: May 28, 2015, 02:12:10 PM 
Started by BobC - Last post by AlasKen
Dave a remarkable list.  I have some of that but not all.  I need to get more of it and will print this out to measure against. 

One safety item I purchased this is year is a decent pair of 12" bolt cutters.  I am starting over with little ones on the boat and worry about a 16 oz weight embedded in the face on a slow ride back to share.  I tried cutting some hooks with the heavy duty linesman pliers I had on board and I couldn't do it with a free hook much less one on a moving target.  I can snap them fairly easily with the bolt cutters.  This would at least get the weight off.  If the point has already come through then you can cut it shorter and pull it on out, if it is your macho buddy.  A bit of whiskey poured on it and some duct tape and you don't even need to cut the trip short. <grin> 

Another recent addition, last year is a DeLorme InReach device.  Similar to the old SPOT I had but allows 2 way satellite communication via email or text.  It also has a SOS function to let the emergency services I got myself in a life threatening jam.  The nice feature is I can let me wife know I am weathered in and staying an extra day so she is not calling the coast guard and I am not trying to travel when I should just anchor up another day.  The SPOT could send a message but you never knew if it went.  This one signals when the message goes out.  This doesn't take the place of an EPIRB but it does a similar function as well as general communication.  It has a built in GPS so is displaying the location as well.

Thanks for the safety list.  I need to check it again.

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:59:37 PM 
Started by BobC - Last post by AlasKen
I shared this photo on the trips section but wanted to point out what I did in regards to Plano Boxes.  If you look behind me you see a cabinet with a door and a finger hole.  It is held shut with an earth magnet and holds 6 or 7 Plano or Cabala's boxes.  I store about 10 or so in a ig tote that slides under my cuddy.  When we get started for the day we move the ones we are most likely to need to the tackle station on the deck seen in the photo.  Oo the inside of the door I have it set up to hang lures, hook, or jigs as they are removed to try something else.  This keeps them secure and out of reach of the little ones or big ones.  They can hang to dry before going back in the box.  This is a new addition this year and matches with my propane locker on the other side.  I will tran and grab a photo this weekend.  I used scrap 3/4 plywood strips on the side and 1/4" ply shelves that just sit on the 3/4 ply.  They are sized for the shorter boxes but a shelf can be removed for the taller boxes.  So far it is working as I hoped.  We found it a lot easier to change out rigging and keep the deck clear.  Also easier on the stomach than scrounging around in the cuddy looking for something.

....I was planning a cabinet with slots to accommodate Plano boxes and a far amount of hooks or rods to hang rigs on so they don't tangle. Also a small drawer for knives, scissors, crimpers etc....

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:57:20 PM 
Started by badger27 - Last post by BobC
Radons, Wilson, Anderson are boats that were designed for a specific purpose, and that purpose is handling a heavy load down swell. You will see more of them in the west coast sea urchin fishery than any other boat because they are extremely sea worthy boats that can handle heavy loads. They are very good boats, and for the channel islands commercial use it would be hard to find a better boat. I love these boats, they are simple work boats with good looks IMO.  But for me Money is the most important thing in my boat.  I could never afford a new Radon and It would cost just as much if not more to rebuild and repower an old one that I could afford.  Then there is using the boat, for me my boat is not out there making money so gas money is another thing, I could not afford to use one of these boats as much.  In my Tolman I never think about the gas it is cheaper for me to go solo on my boat than share the costs on other boats. Going into the weather in the Radon I have been on was not great, in my skiff it is slower and worse than a Radon but I just go slow.

This makes a lot of sense to me. The boats lend themselves to that exact purpose and the design works for that.  Thanks for shedding light on it Bleu.

We have a couple brothers  here in NC that are commercial rod and reel fishing.  Almost a lost breed.  They are using a Contender with big outboards on it.  I think this is the same type of deal as the sea urchin guys you are talking about,  they find a boat that is seaworthy and can get them out and back in just about anything, and then write off the fuel costs.  Works for them but wouldn't work for me.

The Harrison build is really not that complicated.  Time consuming yes, but not terribly complicated once you understand how it works.  The majority of the screws in the hull are just temporary and come back out and will be re-used on subsequent builds.  They just hold the cold molded hull laminations in place until they cure. It is pretty much the same process as the front of the Tolman fairbody where you use two layers to get a tighter bend radius.  The only difference is they do a lot more of it and it is smaller peices. Some builders use FRP staples instead of screws and leave them in.

It is bit more time consuming than S&G construction but makes a very strong, lightweight boat with pretty curves.  Same way they build the 80' Sportfishing yachts.

Bmay, Deadrise comes in many flavors, primarily "constant" (think the 24* bow to stern  Bertram Moppie) and "variable" (think a lobster boat with sharp forefoot entry and nearly flat bottom at the stern) with a lot of little variants and progressions in-between.  Are you jumping waves or cutting through them is the big question. The bottom works as a unit. Chines should compliment deadrise. More deadrise = more displacement and more HP needed to plane but a softer ride.  This can be tempered by strakes and chines.  Less deadrise = less displacement and less HP to plane but a harder/wetter ride.  Strakes and chines can dry the ride but will not make it softer.  It will however allow you to stay on plane at lower speeds rather than falling off as some of the boats with more deadrise do.  This is where the Tolman finds its sweet spot so to speak.  A middle ground deadrise between say 8*-15* allows you to plane halfway efficiently at low speed and in nasty sea's without backing off the throttle too much and falling off plane or beating yourself to death.  It also allows for reasonable handling in a following sea.  You can't run as fast as a greater deadrise boat in heavy seas, nor can you get away with the low horsepower a flat bottom skiff can.  It is the middle ground.

As for gaining weight, I think it is age that does it. At least it did for me.  LOL

Ken, you need a Stitch and glueTolman truck or maybe some reverse chines on the truck to boost you mileage Grin 

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:28:18 PM 
Started by badger27 - Last post by starbright55
I think my Tolman is gaining weight.  Even so it is still pretty efficient.  
Meaning you're accumulating stuff like Dave Nolan, or you think you're soaking up water somewhere?

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:21:25 PM 
Started by badger27 - Last post by AlasKen
I think my Tolman is gaining weight.  Even so it is still pretty efficient.  Last weekend we ran 68 miles and used about 14 gallons.  Fuel burn gauges said it avg a little better than 4.5 MPG, statute mile.  I don't get in a big hurry and was running about 24 - 26 MPH most of the time.  That is affordable for me.  We fished all day for about $42.  I burned twice that in the truck getting there and back  about 150 miles each way.  I got about 10 MPG in the truck.  Burned about 30 gallons.  It may be time for new plugs as I used to get about 12 MPG the same trip.  Ken

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:06:25 PM 
Started by pfithian - Last post by AlasKen
I am on the lookout.  Hopefully I will run across a deal such as you got.  If you happen to see one let me know.  I can't afford to replace my existing setup.  I am still trying to learn how to use it.  Ken
And why?  Just curious as I have a functioning LCX Unit.  Just can't remember the number off hand.  Maybe 27.  Anyone have a Radome for an LCX unit I am in the market.  Ken

If you have an LCX-27, look for a Lowrance LRA-1800 or 2400 with a RIM-300 cable and the correct processor box. 

 on: May 28, 2015, 01:04:11 PM 
Started by cgrfish - Last post by Randy Zimmerman
I weighed all of my epoxy batches and made a simple ratio chart to help me keep the mix straight. It saved me from having to do the math in my head every batch and  really helped when it was late and I was tired.

I also found that it helped having the right tool...(I know that should be obvious). I used a portable table saw and in hindsight wished that I would have invested in a full size table saw. I used an old Craftsman jig saw for most of the build that I was always having to adjust and seemed to struggle with. It finally died and I invested in a Makita jig saw and was delighted with how smooth it was. My point is that the tools will out live the time it takes to build. I think I would have saved some time and aggravation if I would have invested in some better tools early on. Renn addresses this topic in the book. With that said, I did buy some tools from Harbor Freight tools (7" sander, grinder, etc) and they worked fine. I know that nearly every tool that I own is the result of some project.

 on: May 28, 2015, 12:49:36 PM 
Started by Randy Zimmerman - Last post by Randy Zimmerman
I've already been asked if I would build again. I answered without hesitation and said YES. I'd build a Jumbo or GA if I lived near the Atlantic or Pacific. My guess is that the costs would be similar to my widebody CC. The difference would be the cabin fabrication and except for the wood, I have sufficient leftover fiberglass and epoxy that would probably be able to finish it.

 on: May 28, 2015, 12:44:50 PM 
Started by Randy Zimmerman - Last post by Randy Zimmerman
I believe that considering the cost to build vs just buying a boat is something that nearly everyone considers before they take the plunge on building a Tolman. A 5 min search of the site reveals a significant number of posts on the topic. I thought I would share my accounting for my recently completed widebody CC.

I don't doubt for a second that others have spent less or more...these are just my costs to complete the hull and get it on the water. With everything in the build you have to make decisions about what you want and you generally have to make trade offs. In my case, I decided early on that this might be my last boat so I would build it the way I wanted and set it up they way that I would enjoy it.

In my case, I purchased a kit from Jim @ Saltwater Workshop. I thought it was a big time saver and I would describe myself as a novice wood worker. I believe that the kit enabled Dave and I to rough out the hull in a week.

Here are my expenses
Wood (includes the kit and any additional wood purchased) = $3713
Epoxy & Fiberglass = $2500
Fuel System = $782
Electrical (wire, fuse panels, switches, lights, on board chargers, batteries, etc) = $1,603
Consumables (brushes, sand paper, etc) = $1,891
Other (shipping charges, trailer parts, livewell parts, etc) = $1,758
Boat Rigging (trailer, Suzuki DF140, Seastar helm, Electronics, NMEA 2k, seats, etc) = $18,953

Total = $31,200


 on: May 28, 2015, 11:29:08 AM 
Started by badger27 - Last post by starbright55
In my Tolman I never think about the gas it is cheaper for me to go solo on my boat than share the costs on other boats.
The best reason for me in wanting to build!

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